Under the train – under the train♪wow I am not Sebastian @The Little Mermaid, but you might drink like a fish @ under the train tracks between Shinbashi station and Yurakucho station.
Many guidebooks mention that there are so many taverns under the train tracks at the center of Tokyo. Just one stop from Tokyo station or you can just walk along under the JR railroad from Tokyo toward Shinbashi area for a walk.
You can easily find very smokey, sparkle area by Shinbashi,Yurakucho stations.
It seems, as it were, an oasis for Japanese business men after daily hard work, those taverns are like pubs in England. Besides, Japanese taverns under the train tracks are cheaper than other restaurants around the flamboyant area of Tokyo station. You can just have a drink and order small snacks (otsumamis )& go home is OK without paying gratuities but covering what your had only.
Menu + Price tags at the edge of the eaves
Japanese typical taverns
Many people come together here with their colleagues or friends, some people just stop by here alone to have a drink after work. Some taverns keep old-fashioned style – to hang price tags at the edge of the eaves for taking the place of the grand menu.
You can make an order just read those price tags or, ask waiter or waitress to have today’s “Omakase” or find out a menu by a table. Prices are rather cheap because taverns are under the train tracks. Sometimes sounds of train running very noisy but I am sure that you will enjoy the atmosphere and foods & drinks there!
Even though -smoke gets in your eyes – don’t worry, your friends or companies can’t see through your oriental flush and smokey red eyes after getting drunk behind the smoke. Have a good time @ smokey taverns and enjoy Tokyo evening!
One of the reasons why Japanese books and
comics have been enthusiastically published by Japanese publishers for almost a
century is, just because they are bookworms.
Japanese TV anime show started in 1963, it was “Tetsuwan Atom (Astro Boy)” written by Osamu Tezuka. But still, Japanese kids were, not only reading comic magazines (Mangas) but also watching TV anime show. For example, “Dragon Ball” by Akira Toriyama, “One Piece” by Eiichiro Oda, was still really loved by Japanese people both animes and comics. They are legendary & symbolic authors in Japanese comic history!
The season has come for bookworms! “Kanda used book festival in 2024” started on 25th October until 4th November.
Kanda, Jimbocho area is broadly known as “booktown” in Tokyo. “Kanda used book festival” is held only once a year, the festival covers flea markets and many events, deals with used books, video, CDs, drawing, painting, and etc, more than 1 million of books are exhibited.
I am a kind of niche collectors of “Ukiyoe hanga 浮世絵版画”and cult movie pamphlet (brochures of cult movies which especially directed by foreign creators). I opened my eyes wide, found a couple of brochures of 80’s movie, some Ukiyoe hangas. I was so happy to find treasure buried in a heap of garbage. I prefer looking for treasure in flea markets to participate in internet auctions!!
Ninja was – because they were supposed to
vanish around the end of 20th century -But people, especially
foreigners believe that their descendants are still living in small villages
anywhere in japan like “Ninja no Sato”.
Yes, their descendants are still alive,
especially Iga-Ninja(伊賀忍者)、Koga-Ninja(甲賀忍者)、Agatsuma-Sanada Ninja(吾妻真田忍者) are very
famous, then, the some real descendants and performers are teaching Nin-jyutsu(忍術) to tourists just as an entertainment below,
However, Ninja used to be treated – secret agents, private detectives, spies – were hired by Shogun and local Samurai, to play an important role in medieval Japan.
Some says Ninja exist at the beginning of 15th century to the end of 20th century. From the end of 15th century, samurai turned into local feudal loads(Daimyo), they gradually controlled their province.
After victory of the battle of Sekigahara, Ieyasu Tokugawa unified Japan as a one country in 17th century. But at that time, Japan was still divided around 68 territories. Daimyos who contributed to Sekigahara, were given Han（dominion）where closed to Edo(Tokyo), On the other hand, Daimyos who were opposed to Ieyasu Tokugawa while Sekigahara, were shunted off to faraway. They are called “Tozama(外様)Daimyo”.
In this way, Tokugawa and Tozama(外様)Daimyo – below the surface battles began! For exsample, some Tozama
Daimyos began import and export trade with foreign countries secretly. Some
Tozama Daimyos tried to rise in rebellion against Tokugawa Bakufu. Furthermore,
Since Tokugawa banned believing Christianity, Christians plotted treason
against Tokugawa in Nagasaki.
Meanwhile, Tokugawa hired many Ninjas for investigating
local movements, also Tozama Daimyos hires Ninjas to win those information
warfare as well.
So that Ninja was very important existence
both of Tokugawa and Tozama Daimyo.
Now, Ninjas are famous – under the influence of comics and animes “Naruto” “Nintama” and drama “House of Ninjas(Ninja-no-ie)”.
Japanese people might think – Ninjas had gone –not exist in present, but you know, Ninjas are spies, they should have just kept his or her head down, hunkered down. Believe it or not, your neighbors might be Ninja!! and Ninja-no-Ie!
By the way, female Ninja are called “Kuno-ichi”. Because “female” is described “女“in Kanji letters, so it can be broken in three parts as
Companies in Japan, officially allow Japanese workers to have two long vacations for a whole year – in summer and in winter. We call them “Bon yasumi” (盆休み summer vacation), “Shogatsu yasumi”(正月休み winter vacation) respectively.
Bon yasumi is set for welcoming our ancestors’ souls from the graves of dead ancestors of the family cemetery to present clans’ homes.
Ohaka – a grave in cemetery
Bon festivals take place in the clan’s home around mid-July or mid-August. In this festival a variety foods are offered to the spirits of ancestors, and their repose prayed for.
People who have moved to the cities to work
return to their hometowns during this period.
Hakamairi – visiting the family’s grave
In towns and villages across the country
people wearing Yukata(light cotton kimono), gather for outdoor dances known as
Bon Odori (盆踊り) and fireworks(花火) for sympathizing with the spirits of
the ancestors.
Bon Odori StageWearing Yukata and Bon Odori dance
Visiting a family grave manners (墓参り) commonly would be done in Higan(彼岸).Higan is two periods of seven days with the middle day falling the
spring or autumn equinox. Higan means “the other shore” or “in nirvana” in
English.
Old Japaneses believed that since our ancestors’ spirits may recall during Higan, so visiting family graves means seeing and talking with our ancestors while Buddhist rites carrying out.
However, modern busy lifestyle deprives our time of visiting the family’s grave(墓参り）. Nowadays, Japanese people have a tendency to close their family’s graves. So to speak,people prefer to be buried as joint funeral with others in huge cemetery. Or we have some choices like – burial with plants, burial at ocean, etc.
Then, when it comes to have no time to visit family’s grave, sometime we ask for professional agents who visit our family’s graves in our behalf. Some temples provide users for online Hakamairi. Even though you can’t visit family’s grave physically, don’t worry! you could access to the temple’s site to see your ancestors and dead family members virtually!!
One of the most famous iconic symbol of Japan is Mt.Fuji.
-If you can just get your mind together
Then come on across to me
We’ll hold hands, and then we’ll watch the sunrise –
– “Jimi Hendrix “Are you experienced?”-
Mt.Fuji’s climbing rule changes for the 2024 mountain opening.
*Access restrictions will be imposed – Maximum
4000 people per a day.
*Restricted access the Yoshida trail gate at the fifth station will be closed from 4p.m. to 3a.m.
*Hiking fee 2000 yen should be made on the day or paid in advance on the Yamanashi Prefecture reservation system site.
*Optional donation will be appreciated – 1000 yen for conservation of Mt.Fuji’s environment.
Yes, Mt.Fuji is still beautiful when you look up the iconic mountain in the vicinity of the area. But it is not enough. Seeing is believing!! That must be true.
Let’s try to climb to the mountain and feel special moment & atmosphere at the top of Mt.Fuji.
I am not sure you can see the beautiful sunrise from the top of mountain, because mountain’s weather is always changing and Mt.Fuji has been told as “capricious volcano” for the last 1000 years. Yes, don’t forget, Mt.Fuji is just a dormant volcano right now. The last volcanic eruption in the past 500 years happened in 1707, while the edo era of Japan. In 2024, Mt.Fuji is volcanic level is level 1, potential for increased activity.
You might miss an unforgettable mountain view for good if you procrastinate to climb to the mountain this time. As I mentioned before, Mt.fuji is capable of eruption at any time.
You have a couple of choices of trails and
trips.
From Yamanashi Pref. – Yoshida Trail is expected to open on July 1st – September 10th in 2024.
From Shizuoka Pref. – Subashiri Trail – July 10 to September 10, Gotenba Trail-July 10 to September 10, Fujinomiya Trail – July 10 to September 10 (Trail between 5th and 6th station: open from July 1).
Night climbing will not be allowed without
staying in a mountain hut.
Most of climbers decide to stay one night at mountain houses (huts) where is stood in the level 8 of the mountain, but some of them, especially young people from foreign countries, try to climb it one night without having rest. It is called “Dangan Tozan 弾丸登山”- means “Bullet Climbing”. Bullet Climbing causes altitude sickness, hypothermia, risk of fall, crowded path to the top and so on.
Please read the official site above carefully, you should not force yourself to make an excessive schedule.
Shadow of Mt.Fuji – what it calls “Sakasa Fuji” – inverted Fuji.
It will be likely to be hot out, make sure
you stay hydrated, and bring a long-sleeve t-shirt with you, because the
mountain top is very very cold and windy!!
There is the Fuji-san Hongu Asama Taisha shrine and a post office in the top of Mt.Fuji, you can buy special souvenirs and post cards which you can mail it to your family & friends from the top of the mountain! It must be unforgettable experience in your life.
As I mentioned in the previous posting, cherry blossom blooming – initiates new semester and new businesses year in Japan, because cherry blossoms commonly bloom in the beginning of April. (However, under the influence of global warming, cherry blossoms have been blooming and scattering during March the last few years in Tokyo area).
Iris Festival – Horikiri Shobu-en
Cherry blossom blooming season is one of the famous highlights of Japanese sightseeing, moreover you admire flower blooming scenery, we could introduce you some famous flower festival spots in Tokyo.
In Kameido(JR Sobu Line station), where is famous for The Plum Tree Festival from February to March at Kameido Tenjin Shrine. After that, Wisteria Festival takes place in the middle of April. There is over 300 tress of plum and beautiful wisteria trellis – consists of over 50 trees of wisterias.
Wisteria Festival at Kameido Tenjin Shrine
If you have a sweet tooth, you may try to have famous Japanese traditional sweets – Kuzumochi(葛餅) in Funabashi-ya in Kameido – the shop is located in close to Kameido Tenjin Shrine.
Kuzumochi with Kinako and Kuromitsu
In Katushika, Edogawa, there is famous
Flower Irises Festival during May and June.
The flower garden names are, Horikiri Shobu-en, (Edogawa) Koiwa Shobu-en, respectively. Horikiri Shobu-en and Edogawa can be reached by Keisei line. Only 5 or 10 minutes walk takes you to those flower irises gardens.
In the rainy season begins June in Tokyo, hydransias start to bloom.
At the Kinshi（cho） Park is one of interesting selfie spot – with Tokyo Skytree Tower and hydransias and you!
Ueno, Kameido, Katushika, Edogawa,
Kinshicho, are located in Tokyo eastern area, also are called “Shita-machi(下町)“downtown area in Tokyo” including Yanaka(谷根千) area.
You can explore retroactive atmosphere in
deep, old Tokyo eastern area and enjoy this short escape from neo-futuristic
city of Tokyo !!
Those flower gardens above are – all free of charge! Yeah!!
If you are a professional chef, even though nothing but an amateur cook, you will be fond of this town. There are many kitchen wares and supplies in many genres of cuisines tools for professional cooks in everywhere Kappa Bashi.
Just five to ten minutes walk will take you to Kappa Bashi Dougugai from Asakusa station. It is located in between Asakusa to Ueno.
Asakusa Gojyuno-to
Asakusa Kaminari-mon
Ueno Park
The landmark of Kappa Bash is “The Big Shef” from Niimi Youshokki Store at the corner of south end in Kappa Bashi Dogugai street.
I just stop by this street to find a couple
of knife sharpener of my own knives.
Even old, rusty, dull, flawed knives are likely to be renewed by using three types of knife sharpener (Toishi砥石) from coarse to fine textures. The knife sharpener experience was a kind of magic, exhilarating. My own knife became almost brand-new one!!
Knife sharpener lessons on site are
available in Kappa Bashi Dogugai.
Also, you can find out many lesson videos @You
Tube.
Nothing would need to have an elaborate training for sharpening knives. Don’t be afraid and not to be too much meticulous. Learning useful tips of knife maintenance will make your knives long-lasting. It is also contributing to sustainable living.
Maybe you also like plastic food samples. I like them too. They are look like real dishes and fresh foods. Small food sample of magnets, key holders are also good for souvenirs.
Japanese Hashi(箸)and Yunomi(湯呑み)ceramics, dishes, Tekki(鉄器),Sake bottles(徳利)and cups(御猪口) are very cute and have a varieties of colors, textures.
ironwares store
lantern store
If you plan to go to Asakusa, Ueno, don’t forget to stop by Kappa Bashi Dogugai. But one point that I need to mention, most of stores of Kappa Bashi will be closed on Sunday and generally open 9a.m. to 5p.m. Don’t be late, don’t procrastinate to visit there and enjoy finding your precious curios – @ Kappa Bashi Dogugai!!
In my previous posting, I introduced that Japanese new year’s customs –Kakizome- the first writing of the new year with Japanese writing brush (fude 筆) and ink(sumi墨). People commonly write new year’s resolutions, auspicious words and poems for celebrating new year.
The 59th Kakizome competition
and exhibition of Japan took place at Nippon Budokan in February 2023.
Nippon Budokan, maybe, no need to explain, the central organization hall for the promotion of Japanese Budo武道 (ex. Judo柔道, Kendo剣道, Kyudo弓道,Aikido合気道, Karate空手, Sumo相撲, and so on). Furthermore, it is also a well-known place where is legendary, prestigious live concerts hall. Famous musicians have been holding their live concerts at Budokan since 1964, like The Beatles, Cheap Trick, Kiss, Aerosmith, Eric Clapton, Guns N’ Roses, etc. (excuse me, I am a huge hard rock, heavy metal fan!)
At that time, there was the award ceremony and
an exhibition for the winners of 59th Kakizome competition.
The appreciation of a work of calligraphy depends on the beauty of expression, theme selection, writing style, meaning of the words or poems.
Calligraphy has been more highly respected as an art in China, Korea and Japan for a long time, because of the complexity of the Kanji character. In Japan, They are often displayed at Tokonoma(Japanese alcove) as the main theme of Kakejiku.
The awards judgement have been made by each sponsor like news paper companies, governmental organizations, cultural organizations, thief of municipals. The evaluation criteria is based on brush strokes, letter structure, gradation of light and shade of sumi, arrangement, letter alignment. Every letter should be unified as one worldview by using a one washi和紙(hanshi) 半紙paper,bunchin文鎮, suzuri硯, shitajiki下敷.
Shodo has basic 5 figures of writing Kanjis, 篆書(Tensho)、隷書(Reisho)、草書(Sosho)、行書(Gyosho)、楷書(Kaisho).
Kaisho, Gyosho, Sosho, Reisho, Tensho,
As I mentioned before, writers have a tendency to select new year’s resolutions, happy auspicious words, old Chinese poems, Japanese old proverbs for their writing themes.
Everyone feel happy for watching Childrens’
kakizome in January.
Also, I was really impressed when I stood in front of artistic shodo works by professionals, even amateurs, those shodo works were…beyond description!
Tokyo Grand Japanese Tea Ceremony was held in Hama Rikyu Gardens on October 2022. It had been held on regular basis from 2020, then the first time ceremony in three years after 2 times cancellations due to covid-19 pandemic.
Tea ceremony – it is called “Sado” “Chanoyu” in Japanese, we have no choice but to mention – “The Book Of Tea” – originally written by Okakura Tenshin in English. The book is very famous in western countries, literally, it is still playing an important role in introducing Sado’s background and philosophy. The book is also very useful guideline for beginners who would like to know the heart of Chanoyu or knowing Japanese esoteric culture and history.
Basically, the event was divided into four programs and areas.
1. Tea ceremony (Indoor)
2. Outdoor tea ceremony (called Nodate in
Japanese)
3. Outdoor tea ceremony by high school
student.
4. Indoor tea ceremony in English
Pre-registration tickets were available in the
website below,
Walk-up tickets were limited available in case of having seat cancellations.
”Cha-Dougu” 茶道具 Tea utencils
The participants will definitely enjoy the world of “Chanoyu” with a cup of green tea (Maccha) and Japanese traditional sweets (Wagashi) only 500 yen!
It is no wonder if you might be a little bit scared to participate in tea ceremony for the first time, frankly, even I am a Japanese, still felt like “having a high threshold” for formal Chanoyu entry because it has strict manners to share same atmosphere and space with the host and other guests.
However, this event is largely open for Chanoyu beginners who are just interested in Japanese Tea Ceremony and Japanese gardens and culture, also Nodate(outdoor tea ceremony) is more casual tea ceremony party so you can join them with ease.
They will hand out brochure, which gives you the basic instruction of tea ceremony. So don’t worry! You don’t hesitate to join them!
”Nodate”野点 Tea ceremony (Outside)
The instruction of tea ceremony – quoted
from Tokyo Grand Tea Ceremony 2022 brochure. The ceremony carries on like this.
Guests should remove watches and accessories such as rings and bracelet before entering the tearoom, so as not to damage the tea container and utensils.
It is said that as a general manner, guests should wear white socks or tabi, and bring along “kaishi” paper and picks used for eating wagashi Japanese sweets.
Manners may differ between tea schools. Please listen carefully to the commentary of teacher and put it in practice.
When wagashi Japanese sweet are served, you say : “Osaki-ni (pardon me for going ahead)” to your neighbor, transfer a wagashi to the “kaishi” paper in front of you, pick wagashi are eaten before the drinking of the tea.
When tea is served, you say : “Osaki-ni (pardon me for going ahead)” to your neighbor, put the tea bowl in front of you and bow to the host. You take it in your right hand, place it on the palm of your left hand and raise it slightly with gratitude. With the front of the bowl toward you, rotate in twice to avoid drinking from the front, and then drink all the tea in a few sips.
When you have finished drinking, use the thumb and index finger of your right hand to lightly trace the part of the tea bowl rim from which you drank, and then wipe your fingers with a “kaishi” paper.
Then turn the bowl back twice so that the front faces you and place the bowl in front of you.
After looking at the tea bowl in appreciation, turn it with its front towards the host.
Tea ceremony in English
The Sado or Chanoyu – is traditional Japanese way of drinking tea in accordance with set rules of etiquette. the point is – both the host and guests share a sense of togetherness during the ceremony.
The Chanoyu was mostly perfected by Rikyu
Sen in the Azuchi-Momoyama period in the latter half of the sixteenth century.
As it were, the core of “heart of Chanoyu” is felling the hosts’ hospitality – they always take utmost care in the preparation of their tea rooms, the adjacent garden, tea utensils and the provision of simple dishes for the exquisite tea room.
The tea ceremony etiquette has been influenced by the etiquette observed by the samurai classes as well as by the form of Noh dances. In turn, the tea cult had a great influence on traditional Japanese customs and manners.
Japanese hospitality – sometime calls “Omotenashi” in Japanese is a part of Chanoyu, which also represents sense of Chanoyu sprits from Rikyu.
In the western countries, the most important holiday is Christmas. People celebrate and spend special time with their family members. Japanese people also go back to their hometown in the end of December and spend Shogatsu (正月)holiday until the first few days of January.
To the contrary to the western countries’ Christmas celebrations, the most important holiday in Japan is the New Year’s Day that is called “Shogatsu”.
New Year’s events already begin at the New Year’s Eve. Commonly they eat soba noodles, which is called “Toshikoshi soba” for preparing and celebrating the New Year, While listening the sound of temple’s bells “Jyoya no kane”.
In the morning of Shogatsu, they open jyu-bako bento box. “Osechi Ryori”(お節料理) is hors d’ oeuvre – a set of fortune cuisines. Every ingredient has characteristic meaning. Japanese people taste and enjoy these meals for praying New Year’s fortune and happiness, family member’s health, well-being.
Jyu-bako bento box is full of Osechi Ryori. As I mentioned before, every cuisine has each meaning, for example, it is nothing but a rhyme,
Kuro mame(black beans) – means “mame ni kurasu” (live diligently).
Meanwhile, some dishes were selected, in favor of their figures or colors.
Kazunoko (herring roe) – many eggs of herring – hopes “shison hanei” (descendants prosperity).
Kurikinton (mushed sweet potatos & chestnuts) – indicates “okane” (raise money, gold from its golden color).
Ebi (shrimp) – hopes live longer until their backs are curved (get old) like shrimps.
Zouni(雑煮)is commonly cooked baked rice cakes with some vegetables and fish cakes in broth soup of soy source or miso. Tastes are different in each region.
They often visit shrines or temples to make a wish and pray for the good fortune of the New Year. It is called Hatsumoude(初詣). Some people watch the sunrise from ocean or mountain.
At the same time, Japanese people send postcards(Nengajyo 年賀状) to their relatives, friends, colleagues as New Year’s greeting. It’s basic manners to be delivered to addressees until a few days of new year’s day even if belated.
Japanese children often receive some money in a small envelope (pochi-bukuro) from their parents and relatives. That is called “Otoshidama” .
While spending their relaxing, fun time with their family members, often we play traditional New Year’s games as below,
Takoage(凧揚げ)- means flying a kite. Typical kite design is traditional Japanese Ukiyoe (浮世絵), and people selects happy design to celebrate new year.
Kakizome, Shodo(書き初め,書道)-the first writing of the new year with Japanese writing brush, Fude(筆)and Sumi(墨). People write their new year’s resolutions, positive words in calligraphy by using a Japanese Shitajiki（下敷), Bunchin(文鎮), and Washi paper (和紙).
Karuta(カルタ)-Japanese playing cards are two sets of cards – reading part and picking part. Participants of the game try to pick the correct card while the partner card is chanted.
The most popular set of cards is “Hyakunin Isshu” that had been selected 100 famous poems from the 8th to the 13th century.
Koma-mawashi(独楽回し)- A game of top-spinning. Players try to spin fast their own spinning top on the ground. The longest spinning one will be the winner.
Hanetsuki(羽根突き)- Hanetsuki is similar to badminton game. But it uses a shuttlecockand a wooden paddle, which is drawn Japanese traditional picture by using bright colors.
There are many other regional, local events and plays in Japan.
